How to remove sebaceous filaments: my 3 tips for clearer pores
Written By Jenny Wu on
When I was still a student, my biggest skincare concern were my pores and blackheads. Except later on I learned those weren’t blackheads, but actually sebaceous filaments, which are a normal part of everyone’s skin. Still, they were pesky and I wanted to get rid of them nonetheless.
I’ve tried my shares worth of products to remove them and to minimize the appearance of my pores, but I’ve found that the most effective method isn’t using a specific product, but using the right type of products regularly in your routine.
Here are my 3 methods on how I keep my sebaceous filaments under control:
1. Using a clay mask regularly in the shower
A deep cleaning clay/mud mask is great for helping draw out the sebum and dirt in your pores, aka the sebaceous filaments. My favorite is the non-drying Peter Thomas Roth Irish Moor Mud Mask, but for serious pore clearing actions I swear by the Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleaning Mud Mask.
Read more: I’ve tried 30+ mud masks, and here are my 5 favorites
I use these once a week on my nose, forehead, and chin right before I shower, allowing the shower steam to help further loosen up all that gunk.
When I wash off the mask, I can see all those little buggers floating out of my nose (it’s disgusting yet fascinating), and I take a blackhead extractor (you can also use a cotton swab) to gently scrape them off. Fight the temptation to squeeze more of them out, it can cause scarring and damage the pore, making them appear larger!
2. Using a gentle salicylic or mandelic acid treatment
I’ve severely cut back on exfoliation and my skin hasn’t been happier. However it doesn’t mean I’ve quit all acids completely. Salicylic and mandelic acid are still integral to my routine as they are both oil-soluble acids that can clear our pores and keep them clean. They’re also anti-inflammatory and less irritating than say glycolic acid..
Two favorites of mine are the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid which uses 4% betaine salicylate (an even gentler form of salicylic acid) and the classic Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, which uses 2% salicylic acid.
The COSRX texture is slightly thicker than water, but absorbs fast and doesn’t leave a sticky finish. The PC one has a more oily slip and would work best for dry skin types. I apply either one on my t-zones every night.
Dr. Wu’s Intensive Renewal Serum is still my gold standard when it comes to mandelic acids. Despite the higher actives % it’s way gentler than the By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid Toner, and definitely more effective. I’ll use this maybe once a week or every other week in place of the COSRX.
3. Using retinol regularly in my routine
Retinol is the anti-aging gold standard, but it’s also great at treating pores by increasing our skin cell turnover rate. I use the stronger tretinoin as part of my Curology prescription every other night alternating with the COSRX and over time I’ve noticed my pores appear smaller and with less gunk in them.
If you prefer something less irritating and more accessible, look for retinol based products which are available without prescription. They often include other hydrating and skin repairing ingredients to offset retinol’s potential skin-molting side effects, which make these great all-around serums.
Just make sure you use sunscreen during the day (which you really should be doing anyways), as retinol can make your skin more photosensitive.
The most important thing…cleansing
Which I hope everyone is already doing. But if you’re wearing sunscreen (which you should!), you’ll want to double cleanse at night. The first cleanse to remove the sunscreen, and the second cleanse to actually clean your skin.
When doing the second cleanse, I like gently press my nose area to get the cleanser into the pores as much as possible. Think of your nose like a sponge: which gets the cleanser into the sponge better? Rubbing the surface of the sponge, or pressing into it?
Of course I do the massaging motion as well, but adding these gentle (no need to punch your face in) presses has definitely improved the efficacy of my cleansers!
Gently pressing your cleanser into your skin can help improve the efficacy of your cleansers.
By doing all the above, sebaceous filaments are now the least of my skincare concerns. Hope you found this post helpful, and let me know if you have any tips or products that have done wonders for your pores and sebaceous filaments!
Passionate about science-based skincare. Tested hundreds if not thousands of products since my 20's. Working regularly with brands like iHerb, Ulta, CurrentBody, and MedStar Health to share my knowledge and experience in all things beauty. Learn more.
Skin profile: 35+, dry/combination, focused on well-aging, hydration, and a healthy glow ✨
Comments & Questions
Shireen L. Platt
I need to try using mud mask in the shower, what you said about letting the steam open up the pores for deeper cleansing makes sense. Makes it easier to rinse without the bloody mess too.
Rowena @ rolala loves
Somehow my skin has changed in recent years and I don't really have an issue with sebaceous filaments anymore but they are a real issue for my husband who I swear still has the raging skin of a teenager. He uses the COSRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid twice a day and I have him mask weekly and doing this has kept them at bay. He also uses the COSRX Blackhead Silk FingerBalls which are really effective at reducing surface level blackheads without redness or irritation. Personally Drunk Elephant Baybyfacial has done wonders for my pores in general.
Geniussr
such an informative post...will definitely try all these..thanks for explaining in detail...❤️
www.geniusenough.com
l'ambassadrice
Ugh... Blackheads are my worst skincare nightmare! I've been using clay masks regularly now and they've helped a lot, but I need to start doing those two last steps too!
http://www.lambassadrice.com/
Alyssa
Lately, I'm more concern about my pores. Right now I'm loving the CosRx Two in One Poreless Power Liquid and using the Natural BHA Skin Returning A-Sol, but I've been wanting to try that Blackhead Power Liquid too. I always hear good reviews about it, but I don't know why I always skip it in the store, I always forget I want it XD
xx Alyssa | STYLE VANITY
FASHION TALES
This is an interesting post, although I usually don't have many problems with blackheads, I have loved the Irish Moor Mud Mask since it came out. I remember reviewing it, I absolutely love it in rotation with the pore cleanser. I don't use it all the time but once or twice a month works well. I am with you on the second cleansing, I do the same, and it does make a difference.
FASHION TALES
Marina Rosie
Lovely post as usual Jenny because, girl, being 16 and trying to maintain good skin is HARD. I get blackheads and clogged pores very often so, yes, I do try to do clay masks from time to time but I never knew doing them in the shower was a little Jenny trick, so I'm going to have to start that from today! I'm also looking at including more retinol within my routine as, you're right, it's an amazing ingredient! x
Marina Rosie x
https://marinawriteslife.blogspot.com/
Naya
I must admit - I love your sense of humor when it comes to blackheads! Scrape those bastards off haha, I agree I somehow enjoy the process too although it is very gross yet satisfying at the same time. I will try your clay mask + shower technique for sure! Thanks for all the tips here! xx
Naya
The Party Parrot Blog
Veronica
I actually really want to try mandelic acid and see if iy works. Great tips! I love using clay masks too but it didn't occur to me to use it in the shower.
Joy to the World
LindaLibraLoca
I never thought of pressing my cleanser in around the nose, but it makes much sense explained like that. And I press in my serums anyway, so it shouldn’t be much of a change.
Anne - Linda, Libra, Loca
Julia
Didn't know a lot of this and I think I want to start using a clay mask as well!
Julia // The Sunday Mode
Lubna
Ooh ! The CosRx Powder sounds pretty strong and effective ! Such a helpful post. Thanks !
Lubna
themisslubna.blogspot.ca
Palette Makeup
Thank you for this helpful post ! I found that adding a drop of salicylic acid to my cleanser on a regular basis helps ! I have to try clay masks !
Jenny Wu
This is such a great tip! I'm going to try that now!
Denise
What cleanser do you use, please? Or do you recommend just soap and water? Do you recommend a washcloth or hands only?
Jenny Wu
Hi Denise, I've shared the cleanser I'm currently using here, but in general I'd recommend something suitable for your skin type, low pH, and sulfate-free. I don't use a washcloth to remove the cleanser, just my hands and warm water.
Priscilla
Just to clarify, so for one week, you will use clay mask and the cosrx BHA liquid once a week, then next week clay mask and the mandelic acid? Can we use clay mask and acids on the same day?
Jenny Wu
So I'll typically use the gentler Cosrx BHA liquid every other day, and once a week I'll replace it with a stronger acid like the mandelic acid serum. The clay mask I'll use once a week, and I try to time it on days when I'm not use the mandelic acid, but that's just my personal preference. If you don't have sensitive skin you should be able to use a clay mask and an acid on the same day!
Kat W
What face cleansers do you use? @JennyWu
Jenny Wu
I'm currently using the Youth to the People Superfood Cleanser!
Anette
I have only recently noticed these small white f*ckers peeping out of my skin on my cheeks and in my more greasy areas on both temples (where I have also begun noticing deeper acne scars from my younger years)
...oh the joy of turning 40+ and seeing all of your youthful mistakes.
But then I started up slowly with AHA exfoliation (The Ordinary AHA 7% solution toner), and began noticing these little white things sticking out of my pores when I used the toner and didn't know what they were.
Some Google research lead me to sebaceous filaments, and now it all make a lot more sense.
These days I use a mild skin routine and it really makes a clear difference on my S.F.. I have combination skin with a dry tendency, so my routine is this:
AM:
If I do cleanse, I use a mild, creamy washer, like Korres' Yoghurt wash cream for face or ISNTREE Yam Root milky cleanser.
Toner: Man:yo Bifida Ampoule Toner
Serum: Muldream Aloe & Spirulina calming serum followed by COSRX Snail Mucin 96 essence
Moisture comes from a light day cream with ocean minerals or Kiehl's ultra facial cream
SPF: Purito sunscreen with oat and combined filters (chemical + mineral). This one has been a huge game changer for my skin!
PM:
Makeup cleaner (Bioderma - the pink micellar water)
ISNTREE Yam Root Milky Cream Cleanser (on dry skin). I use water to wash it off.
Toner: Purito AHA & BHA solution (with 7% AHA and 2% BHA + willow bark extract)
Serum/essence: Muldream and COSRX like in the AM routine
Cream: Kiehl's ultra facial cream or a more rich cream with lots of ceramides to build up skin.
Once a week I use ISNTREE Mugwort Clay mask on my pores and do the shower trick. Much more efficient than no water.
I generally avoid products containing niacinamide, as it reddens and irritate my skin.
All the above products has had a really positive impact after I learned that the sebaceous filaments could handle BHAs which I have previously avoided after dealing with a difficult skin barrier, periorale dermatitis.
I also take fish oil (omega 3 supplements) as these guys decrease inflammation in the body and aloe Vera Juice shots to improve gut health. It works wonders for my skin too.
Kristin
I have such trouble with SF. I saw you also use Tretinoin (as do I, but nightly) but alternate it with the days you use the COSRX. Is it ok to use both on the same nights? I’m currently using the .025% tret and have been nightly for some months now.
Jenny Wu
You can try adding in the COSRX maybe every other night while keeping your usual tretinoin routine, and see how your skin adjusts. If your skin is ok then you can use the two together, or you can also try adding the cosrx in the mornings!