Face serums 101: What, when, and how to use them

Written By Jenny Wu on

Serums is one of the most important steps in a skincare routine in my opinion. It’s like the main course of a meal where your skin will get most of its nutrients, so it’s important that we choose products that fit our skin’s needs and use them correctly.

Saying that there are thousands of serum options out there might be an understatement, and with so many options to pick from and each claiming that they solve every skincare concern under the sun, what is a girl (or boy) to do? Which serum do we pick? How many do we really need in our routine? When and how should we use them?

There are very few cure-all serums out there, and depending on the ingredients they feature, will generally be an antioxidant, hydrating, anti-aging, brightening, or exfoliating serum. Each type caters to specific skincare needs and varies in when and how to use them, so let’s take a closer look at each one:

Activist Skincare Hyaluronic Acid SerumPin

Antioxidant serums

What they do
Protect your skin from free radicals (UV rays, pollution, etc), which can accelerate the skin’s aging process. Many antioxidants also provide other benefits like increasing collagen production or soothing irritations.
Common ingredients
vitamin c, vitamin e, niacinamide, green tea extract, coQ10, grape seed extract, resveratrol, ferulic acid
When to use them
In the mornings to protect your skin throughout the day. Can also be used at night.

If there’s one serum worth investing in, it’s an one packed with antioxidants because they typically provide a variety of benefits for the skin.

Think of them as the Jack of All Trades, though if you’re looking for specific goals like anti-aging or brightening, an antioxidant serum alone might not be enough. However most do include a couple hydrating ingredients, so unless your skin is parched, an antioxidant serum can double as a hydrating serum.

Since their main purpose is to protect the skin, make sure you have one in your morning routine so your skin is safe from the external (or internal) free radicals. Of course, don’t forget sunscreen!

Antioxidant serums to try

Of course we can’t forget one of the best antioxidants to include in our routine! 7 types of Vitamin C compared: which one is right for your skin?

Biotherm Life Plankton Essence reviewPin

Hydrating Serums

What they do
Draw and help retain moisture on your skin to keep it soft and supple.
Common ingredients
Humectants – hyaluronic acid, glycerin, collagen, trehalose, sodium PCA, panthenol, honey, aloe vera, urea
Emollients – ceramides, cholesterol, silicones, squalane, and most oils
When to use them
Mornings and evenings, after the rest of your serums and before your moisturizer.

Most hydrating serums are a mix of humectants (drawing moisture to the skin) and emollients (helps retain moisture by filling any holes in our skin’s natural barrier), though often times they will also include antioxidants for extra benefits.

Since these moisturizing ingredients work close to the skin’s surface, make sure to use your other serums first so they have a chance to reach into the deeper layers of your skin.

If you’re still young and have healthy skin, a hydrating serum is really all you need to keep your skin in great shape. Hydrating serums are also excellent if you have sensitive or irritated skin. The ingredients are typically gentle, and some are even anti-inflammatory and will help with the redness.

Hydrating serums to try

Skincare Tip

If you don’t want to invest in a hydrating serum, use a hydrating sheet mask instead! Apply one after your other serums to enhance penetration of previous ingredients and give your skin a big drink of water!

Effortless anti-aging boost with the Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating DropPin

Anti-aging serums

What they do
Minimize the appearances of fine lines and wrinkles, restore skin firmness and elasticity through increased collagen production
Common ingredients
niacinamide, peptides (look for names ending in -peptide), egf, retinoids (tretinoin, retinol, retinal)
When to use them
In the evening, unless your serum doesn’t contain any vitamin a derivatives, then you can use it during the day too.

After the age of 25, our collagen production starts going downhill, so it doesn’t hurt to start using anti-aging serum in your early 20’s.

While peptides are gentle and can be found in a variety of serums, the anti-aging gold standard is tretinoin, the most potent (and irritating) form of vitamin a. There are also gentler forms like retinol and retinal that require multiple conversion processes before it can be used by the skin, but some of the efficacy is lost during each conversion step, so keep that in mind.

Read more: How to use retinol without irritations: a beginner’s guide

If you’re in your early/mid 20’s, niacinamide, peptides, retinol, or even retinyl palmitate will suffice, but once you get older you’ll definitely want to look at adding tretinoin to your routine.

Anti-aging serums to try

  • Curology – A custom formula prescribed by a board-certified health profession to address your skincare concerns. Two of the key ingredients in my formula? Tretinoin + niacinamide. This is a staple in my routine.
  • Inkey List Retinol Serum* – A super gentle and affordable option that’s great for retinoid beginners! (full review)
  • Maelove Moonlight Retinal Super Serum* – Beautifully formulated and uses the slightly stronger but still gentle retinal. A great next step up from your beginner retinoid.
  • Verso Super Serum – Includes the newer retinyl retinoate that’s gentle yet 8x more effective than retinol. My skin was radiant after using this for 2 weeks!
  • Oskia Super 16 Serum – A beautiful serum with antiaging and antioxidant benefits. I saw overall skin health improvements while using this.
  • Klairs Midnight Blue Youth Activating Drops – A water-like essence with growth factor peptides and calming guaiazulene that’s really improved the texture of my skin. I’m on my 3rd bottle. (full review)
My skin brightening routine: 4 products + 3 tips to get your skin glowingPin

Brightening Serums

What they do
Improve skin tone and clarity by preventing discoloration and dullness
Common ingredients
niacinamide (truly a triple threat), vitamin c, hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid, licorice root extract, azelaic acid, retinoids
When to use them
Preferably in the evening, unless your serum doesn’t contain any hydroquinone, arbutin (which hydroquinone is derived from), or vitamin a derivatives, then you can use it during the day too.

Contrary to what you might think, most brightening serums actually don’t brighten your skin by getting rid of discoloration, but by preventing it from forming in the first place.

A lot of factors can trigger pigmentation to form (eg. inflammations, UV rays, hormones), and these brightening ingredients swoop in to stop the process so these dark spots never see the light of day.

If you have existing dullness and discoloration you’d like to address asap, it’s best to pair brightening serums with an exfoliating serum to get the best results. Of course don’t forget sunscreen!

Brightening serums to try

The AHA moment: 12 exfoliant for baby smooth skinPin

Exfoliating Serums

What they do
Improve skin cell turnover to reveal smoother, clearer, and more radiant skin.
Common ingredients
AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid), BHAs (salicylic acid, betaine salicylate), and PHAs (lactobionic acid, gluconic acid/gluconolactone)
When to use them
In the evening as the first step after cleansing (AHAs and BHAs require a lower pH level for maximum efficacy)

If you want to improve your skin tone and texture, look for AHAs like glycolic, lactic, or the gentler mandelic acid (my favorite).

If you have acne-prone or congested skin, salicylic acid will help unclog your pores. PHAs like lactobionic and gluconic acids are even gentler than mandelic acid, making them suitable for those who can’t stand AHAs or BHAs.

Further reading: The AHA moment: 13 exfoliant for baby smooth skin

No matter which option you go with, exfoliating serums can deliver quick results, but it’s important that you start slow and give your skin time to adjust to the acids. Overexfoliating can happen before you know it, especially if you’re also using vitamin c (ascorbic acid) or retinoids (particularly tretinoin) in your routine.

Exfoliating serums to try

I haven’t tried too many exfoliating serums, as I personally prefer gentle and minimal exfoliation only when necessary. But I know many people swear by an exfoliating serum and when used appropriately, they can really make a huge difference to your skin!

How to match your serums

As much as we’d all like to use all these serums in our routine everyday, for most of us that just not feasible (both for the skin and wallet). Here are some ideas on how you can mix and match these serums:

Healthy skin with with a focus on prevention:
Morning → antioxidant serum + optional hydrating serum
Evening → anti-aging serum + optional hydrating serum OR weekly exfoliating serum + anti-aging serum

Dull and textured skin
Morning → antioxidant serum + non-retinol/hydroquinone brightening serum
Evening→ exfoliating serum + brightening serum

Mature skin wanting to minimize signs of aging (my current mix!)
Morning → antioxidant serum + non-retinol anti-aging serum
Evening → weekly exfoliating serum + anti-aging serum OR anti-aging serum + brightening serum

Acne-prone and congested skin
Morning → antioxidant serum + hydrating serum
Evening → exfoliating serum + hydrating serum OR brightening serum (to help with acne scarring) + hydrating serum

Face serums 101: What, when, and how to use themPin

Though I’ve tried to categorize the serums into 5 types, the truth is that many serums today will be a hybrid of multiple types. So it’s still important that you check the ingredient labels to make sure you’re not using something with sensitizing ingredients during the day, or layering on multiple serums with acids that can potentially irritate the skin. When in doubt, follow the product instructions and “less is more” rule!

Hope you found this post helpful, and let me know which serums you use and swear by! Have a great week everyone!

* are products provided for review purposes, but all opinions are 100% honest and my own. This post contains affiliate links, and each purchase helps cover the cost of running this blog at no extra cost to you! Full disclosure policy
Jenny Wu
Jenny Wu

Passionate about science-based skincare. Tested hundreds if not thousands of products since my 20's. Working regularly with brands like iHerb, Ulta, CurrentBody, and MedStar Health to share my knowledge and experience in all things beauty. Learn more.

Skin profile: 35+, dry/combination, focused on well-aging, hydration, and a healthy glow ✨

Comments & Questions

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Alyssa

Before I started blogging about skincare, I thought serums aren't necessary. But now, I can't live without it. My day isn't complete without using my fave serum XD

xx Alyssa | STYLE VANITY

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Jennifer | Mrs Q Beauty

Thanks for laying out Serums. I'm trying to learn more about skincare and this post really helped.

Jennifer | Mrs Q Beauty

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Rowena @ rolala loves

Terrific breakdown Jenny! Whenever anyone asks me for skincare advice, I almost always tell them to add a serum to target their specific skin concerns. If only there were a a cure all serum. I wish. I always rotate a few depending on what's going on with my skin. The Oskia Super 16 is one of my favorites. I just tried a deluxe sample of the SK-II GenOptics Aura Essence Serum and I was impressed enough that I will probably be purchasing it soon :)

Reply
Linda Libra Loca

A very helpful post, thank you Jenny. I love that you took the time to propose different pairings for different concerns, very helpful.

Anne|Linda, Libra, Loca

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Sam | Violet Hollow

Such an information and thorough post Jenny! This so help to me as the world of serums can be a bit overwhelming at times. so many I want to try, will be bookmarking this to come back too. xx

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Lindsey

This post is honestly so informative! Thank you thank you thank you! I am bookmarking this because serums always sound so great but I never know what is actually best for my skin!

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MissLaven

LOVE this article! You always have so great and informative posts. I also spotted some of my good old serum friends, but also a bunch of serums that will go on my wishlist. Thank you so much!

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Gabrielle

Your words on antioxidant serums have certainly inspired me, particularly your point on how they're worth spending a little more on! I'm fairly new to the world of serums, but I'm becoming increasingly interested - that's for sure! :)

aglassofice.com x

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Rakhshanda

I love applying serum especially in my night skincare routine. They are really helpful.
You are looking so pretty in black dear.
Have a nice day.

Kisses <3

http://www.rakhshanda-chamberofbeauty.com/

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Kay

Giiirll this is literally the most user-friendly, informative post that I have ever seen! Thanks so much for putting in so much work to share it with us. :) I absolutely love face serums, and can't imagine my skincare routine without them. I've tried a lot of different ones, but lately I have been loving the Chobs Centella Asiatica serum. My skin is oily and acne-prone, and this is the only serum that's actually made a visible difference! xoxo

Kay
http://shoesandglitter.com

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Deborah

I'm obsessed with everything skincare so I really enjoyed reading this post. I love the hydrating serums, but after reading this I realised there are so many cool serums out there to try! I'm literally bookmarking this post because of how useful it is, thank you!
xx

www.stylebydeb.com

Reply
little luxury list

Wow, thank you for this detailed and awesome post! I was just thinking that my serum isn't sufficient though seems to be so good, so far (Drunk Elephant night serum). My skin is similar to yours and I really need to hit it with some anti-aging and antioxidant serums! You are enabling to spend too much (though necessary) money on Oskia super super 16 serum and the Verso serum.
I have also been debating getting and LED light though. Hmm worth it? I would also love it if it means I use serum less often!

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