Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen Review (it’s not what you think)

I’m team chemical sunscreen 100%. In my experience comfortable texture, no white cast without tint, and good UV protection are impossible to have together in a mineral/physical sunscreen. Until I tried the Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen SPF 30.

However what was supposed to be a stellar review where I wave my hands telling you elegant mineral sunscreens do exist took an interesting turn when I found out more about its ingredients. Let’s just say that some things are too good to be true.

Overview

What is it
A triple functional mild essence that protects skin from UV rays, provides brightening effects, and improves appearance of wrinkles.

Protection Factor
Broad Spectrum SPF30. This sunscreen has not been independently tested.

Filters
13.3% Zinc Oxide (and 5% Butyloctyl Salicylate)

Best as
An everyday sunscreen where you don’t plan on playing sports or going into the water, since this is not labeled as being water resistant.

Things to note
Not a true mineral sunscreen! Alcohol-free, fragrance-free, and cruelty-free. Not water resistant.

Packaging
Plastic squeeze tube with a screw on cap.

Scent
Fragrance-free, though it smells faintly of dried mushrooms to me. Scent dissipates quickly though.

Texture
A light gel-like texture that feels similar to Korean sunscreens. Takes a while to set because it’s so watery, especially once you apply a second layer (assuming you’re using the 2-3 finger method).

Finish
There’s some initial shine but after a minute it sets to a light dewy finish with no white cast on my NC20 skin. Can pill depending on the moisturizer used underneath.

Price & Size
$12 for 50ml on Beautylish and Good Molecules

Product Demo

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Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen Ingredients

The main UV filter is Zinc Oxide, which protects against the 290-400 nm range. It’s also non-irritating but can leave a white cast as well. It’s still unknown whether non-nano zinc oxide (used in this sunscreen) is harmful to coral reefs, but Lab Muffin suggests it’s a possibility depending on how the zinc comes into contact with the corals.

I wouldn’t wear this sunscreen to the beach or outdoors for extended periods anyways. It’s only SPF30 and not water or sweat resistant.

However, there’s actually another UV filter in here that changes the whole nature of the product. Did you find it yet?

Why the Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen isn’t a true physical sunscreen

Yes that’s right. It’s actually a chemical/physical sunscreen hybrid.

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I know, when a friend told me that I was shocked too. I’m pretty familiar with all the approved filters worldwide and none were in this list, even Incidecoder only listed zinc oxide as the only UV filter!

Meet Butyloctyl Salicylate. It’s described as an emollient, solvent, and UV filter stabilizer, preventing filters like Avobenzone and Oxybenzone from breaking down. It can also boost SPF ratings of sunscreens!

The reason it’s able to do that? Well Octisalate, or Ethylhexyl Salicylate, is one of the FDA approved chemical filters that protect against UVB rays. Turns out Butyloctyl Salicylate is Octisalate’s identical twin, just with longer hair. But since Butyloctyl Salicylate has never been approved by the FDA or any country’s equivalent agency as a UV filter, brands don’t list is as one. And since it’s not technically a filter, then this is still technically a mineral sunscreen. Sneaky, right?

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Don’t get too mad at Good Molecules yet, they’re not the first nor last brand to take advantage of the loophole. Just look at all the “physical” sunscreens that actually contain this chemical filter!

This isn’t to say that this ingredient is bad or anything. Octisalate (and by extension Butyloctyl Salicylate) actually has a good safety profile, even by EWG standards. But if someone chooses to use sunscreens with physical filters, they should be able to buy products containing just that, and not have to worry about brands adding in what’s essentially the chemical filter Octisalate with a wig.

Overall I still think it’s a lovely sunscreen formula. There’s a few emollients and humectants to mitigate the drying effects of zinc oxide, and there’s no extra additives that can cause skin sensitivities.

How to use the Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen

Steps and tips on how to best apply sunscreen to ensure proper protection and prevent pilling!

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Materials

• Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen

Tools

• Cushion puffs

Instructions

1. Apply every morning as the last step in your skincare routine.
2. Moisturizer optional if you have oily skin or live somewhere humid.
3. Use the two finger method to ensure adequate application for your face, and apply one finger at a time. Pin
4. Layer one finger’s worth of product at a time to help with blending.
5. Use another finger for your neck.
6. Wait for sunscreen to fully set (shouldn't be more than a minute) before applying makeup!

Notes

To help with application and reapplication, you can use a damp makeup sponge or cushion puff to pat the sunscreen in!

Usage Experience

I was so excited when I first tried this. It feels and applies like no other physical sunscreen I’ve used in the past – the Good Molecules Sheer Mineral Sunscreen is truly weightless and elegant with no white cast, just as its advertising claims! From the demo videos I’ve seen, the finish does seem to work for every skin tone, though some reviews claim otherwise.

The texture is just beautiful. If I had to compare it feels similar to the Beauty of Joseon Sunscreen (my holy grail) and the Skin1004 Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum. Even if it’s a physical/chemical hybrid formula it’s still one of the most elegant US sunscreens I’ve tried yet.

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Unfortunately because it still mainly uses Zinc Oxide, I’ve noticed minor pilling depending on the moisturizer used beforehand. If I used a thicker moisturizer, the pilling was noticeable, especially as I tried to apply the second layer of sunscreen. With a water gel moisturizer, there were no issues.

Another difference between this and Korean sunscreens is that this is not moisturizing when used alone, especially if you have dry skin. Despite the emollients and humectants in the ingredients, my skin starts to feel dry and tight around the 1 hour mark. Oily skin types may feel differently.

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What Others Say

This didn’t leave a white cast at all, or collect in my lines. It also doesn’t have that ‘gritty’ feel that some mineral sunscreens can have, & applied very smoothly.

Christin G.

Everything about it is good except that it leaves a slight cast on dark skin. It’s not noticeable and fades into your skin after a while but when you first put it on, there is a slight cast.

Jordan A, combination skin

As a person of very dark skin, I am very satisfied with this sunscreen! It left no white cast, super easy to blend, didn’t burn my eyes & It leaves a really nice glow but doesn’t feel greasy at all.

Jane, oily/sensitive skin

Other Physical Sunscreens Compared

AXIS-Y Complete No-Stress Physical Sunscreen
AXIS-Y has better protection that’s been independently tested, but it’s not as elegant in texture or finish, plus it’s more expensive. Both contain Butyloctyl Salicylate so aren’t true physical sunscreens. For everyday use I prefer Good Molecules.

Bliss Block Star Daily Mineral Sunscreen
Tinted to minimize white cast, the Bliss one has a light mousse-like texture that’s easy to apply and leaves a velvet, almost blurred finish. Will stain your mask (are people still wearing them?) if you don’t set it. Good for no makeup days when you still want to even your complexion. Also contains Butyloctyl Salicylate.

EltaMD UV Glow SPF 36
I haven’t tried this one, but it uses 20.15% zinc oxide and doesn’t contain Butyloctyl Salicylate, making it one of the few true mineral sunscreens I’ve found. Reviews say this has a thicker texture and potential white cast.

Biore Barrier Me Mineral Gentle Milk SPF 50 Pa+++
A milk type sunscreen that you have to shake first before applying. Texture is typically light and easy to spread but can start to feel a bit heavy as you layer on. Expect a smooth but dewy finish. This one is water resistant and probably the only one I’d recommend for extended outdoor use. Also it doesn’t contain Butyloctyl Salicylate!

Final Verdict

Jenny Wu

Passionate about science-based skincare. Tested hundreds if not thousands of products since my 20's. Working regularly with brands like iHerb, Ulta, CurrentBody, and MedStar Health to share my knowledge and experience in all things beauty. Learn more.

Skin profile: 35+, dry/combination, focused on well-aging, hydration, and a healthy glow ✨