The lesser known, but still brilliant chemical exfoliant: mandelic acid

The week’s #ABSee link party topic is “ingredients”, and I’ve been racking my brain trying to decide which ingredient to feature when I suddenly remembered my beloved Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid, and that’s when I had my AHA (totally unintended pun but I LOVE IT) moment. 

What is mandelic acid?

Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is an AHA, similar to the more commonly seen glycolic acid and lactic acid. When used in moderation, AHAs can accelerate skin cell turnover and improve your skin texture. They can also diminish the appearance of fine lines, and even boost collagen production! So what makes mandelic acid different, and a superior AHA in my opinion?

• It’s just as effective as the popular glycolic acid for treating fine lines and sun damages, but it’s much gentler on the skin.
• It contains anti-bacterial properties that make it suitable for acne-prone skin (source), and can even help treat acne when combined with salicyclic acid.
• It’s also anti-inflammatory and can actually help your skin’s recovery process, making it a common treatment following laser surgery.
• It’s oil soluble, which means it can actually get deep into your pores and help unclog them. Typically you’d rely on a BHA for this, so it’s like killing 2 birds with 1 stone!

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In a nutshell, mandelic acid has all the benefits of common AHAs, but very little of the negatives (source). As with any other AHA, it’s always possible to over-exfoliate, but the chances of mandelic acid irritating your skin are much, much lower. For some reason it’s not as popular in the West (though that’s slowly changing), but it’s the most commonly used AHA in Taiwan.

6 Products with Mandelic Acid

Because I have an aversion towards most Western AHA/BHA formulas (what’s up with the stickiness?), I will only feature Asian products. Or rather, Taiwanese products because we love our mandelic acid!

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1. Dr. Wu Intensive Renewal Serum with Mandelic Acid – 6%, 18%
   2 months later and I’m still mourning over breaking this bottle. I had the 18%, which sounds high, but it’s seriously the most gentle AHA I’ve ever used. No stinging and redness whatsoever. It’s also not sticky at all, something western AHA/BHAs seem to be notorious for, and why I’ve started avoiding them. The best part is that it made my skin super smooth!
   **also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay
2. Naruko DermaLane Intensive Brightening Renewal Treatment Mandelic Acid 20%
   I haven’t tried this one yet, but this contains a slew of other brightening (niacinamide and transexamic acid) and moisturizing (hyaluronic acid and panthenol) ingredients. It’s more expensive than the Dr. Wu serum, but Naruko frequently has sales + gifts with purchase, and shipping is always free for orders $40+!
3. Naruko AMPM Total Brightening Renewal Treatment Mandelic Acid 5%
   This is the little brother of #2. It contains a much lower dosage and is combined with 5% gluconolactone, an extremely gentle AHA with hydrating properties. It’s very similar #2 in all other aspects, so if you’re nervous about trying mandelic acid or have super sensitive skin, you may want to start with this one.
4. My Scheming Mandelic Acid Brightening Silk Facial Mask
   I love My Scheming silk masks – they’re super thin, full of essence, and they really do brighten the skin! Since mandelic acid is so gentle (and the dosage for the mask is also really low), you don’t have to worry about this irritating your skin.
   **also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay
5. Dr. Hsieh Mandelic Acid Home Peeling Liquid – 5%, 10%, 20%, 25%
   Taiwanese brands love using “Dr.” in their name! This comes in 4 different strengths, and the 5%-20% ones are actually gentle enough for daily use. The serum also contains various plant extracts that help minimize any potential irritation and brighten your skin.
   **also available on eBay
6. Dr. Douxi Mandelic Acid Essence – 5%, 10%, 18%, 30%
   This version contains hyaluronic acid and urea for extra hydrating properties, plus menthol extract to help control sebum production. I’m not sure how I feel about menthol in skincare as I know that can be irritating for some, but if you like the cooling sensation this is worth a look.
   **also available on BGO, MyHuo, and eBay

Of the above, I’ve only used the Dr. Wu version, but I’ve read positive reviews for the other ones in the /r/asianbeaty forum. Also, Dr. Hsieh, Dr. Douxi, and Dr. Wu all carry an entire line of products featuring mandelic acid – from cleansers to creams, in case you get the mandelic acid itch. However to really see some results I would still recommend incorporating one of the above serums in your routine.

I will be stocking up on these essences/serums when I go back to Taiwan in a few days, so expect a comparison review in the future! With that said, I will be on vacation visiting the holy trinity of Asian Skincare – Japan, Taiwan, and South Korea, so no blog updates for the next 3 weeks. Make sure to follow me on Instagram or Twitter for daily updates!

Jenny Wu

Passionate about science-based skincare. Tested hundreds if not thousands of products since my 20's. Working regularly with brands like iHerb, Ulta, CurrentBody, and MedStar Health to share my knowledge and experience in all things beauty. Learn more.

Skin profile: 35+, dry/combination, focused on well-aging, hydration, and a healthy glow ✨